Rhea Poddar Loyalka, Creative Director, Deshya by Ma Passion

Rhea Poddar Loyalka, Creative Director at Deshya by Ma Passion, is not merely designing extraordinary jewellery… she is helping reshape an age-old narrative. In a craft long regarded as the domain of men, she is championing a new generation of women artisans, proving that artistry, precision and craftsmanship know no gender. Through Deshya, she is preserving India’s extraordinary gemstone-carving heritage while creating space for women to learn, lead and leave their own indelible mark on one of the country’s most revered artisanal traditions.

Born into the world of gemstones, Rhea’s journey began amidst master craftsmen, rare coloured stones and the timeless artistry nurtured by her family’s renowned gemstone-carving house, Ma Passion. Fascinated by the intricate beauty of carved gemstones from an early age, she went on to deepen her expertise at the prestigious Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Carlsbad. Today, armed with both technical knowledge and creative vision, she brings a contemporary perspective to a legacy spanning over 25 years, transforming exceptional gemstone carvings into wearable works of art that resonate with today’s global collector.

At the heart of Deshya lies a powerful philosophy: heritage must evolve to survive. While honouring centuries-old Indian craftsmanship, Rhea seamlessly blends intricate gemstone carving with bold colours, modern silhouettes and timeless elegance, creating jewellery that feels as relevant today as it is rooted in tradition. Yet, beyond the brilliance of every handcrafted masterpiece lies an even more meaningful mission… to empower women artisans, foster economic independence and inspire a new generation to embrace craftsmanship as both a career and a calling.

For Rhea, true luxury isn’t defined solely by rare gemstones or exquisite craftsmanship. It is found in the human stories behind every creation… the patience of the artisan, the years of dedicated learning, the quiet confidence that comes from mastering a skill, and the pride of preserving a centuries-old art form for future generations. She believes every handcrafted piece carries not only beauty but also the spirit of the hands that shaped it.

In an exclusive interview with Sumita Chakraborty, Founder & Editor-in-Chief, TheGlitz, Rhea Poddar Loyalka, Creative Director, Deshya by Ma Passion, shares her inspiring journey, her vision for empowering women in India’s traditionally male-dominated artisanal ecosystem, the importance of preserving heritage while embracing innovation, and why the future of the Indian kaarigar will be defined not by gender, but by extraordinary talent.

Over to Rhea Poddar Loyalka, Creative Director, Deshya by Ma Passion

For generations, India’s artisanal ecosystem has largely been viewed as a male-dominated space. What inspired you to champion women artisans, and how is Deshya helping rewrite this narrative?

I grew up immersed in this world, accompanying my parents to gemstone exhibitions and spending hours watching master carvers at work. Even as a child, I noticed that while gemstone carving was celebrated as an exceptional craft, it was almost always associated with men. The few women who were part of the ecosystem often remained behind the scenes, despite being equally skilled.

When I returned to India after studying gemology at GIA, I knew I wanted Deshya to be more than a jewellery brand. I wanted it to create opportunities that hadn’t traditionally existed. Whether through training, mentorship or simply making space for women to step into carving, design and craftsmanship, our goal has always been to encourage more women to become part of this legacy.

It’s a gradual shift, but every woman who chooses this path brings a fresh perspective to a centuries old tradition, and that’s how meaningful change begins.

When we think of a kaarigar, the image is often that of a male craftsman. Do you believe that perception is finally changing, and what role do women artisans play in shaping the future of Indian craftsmanship?

The perception is beginning to evolve, but it’s still early days, especially in gemstone carving, where the craft continues to be largely male-led. What is encouraging is that more women are exploring these spaces and proving that craftsmanship is defined by skill, dedication and practice, not gender.

I believe women bring their own perspective to the craft, and as more of them enter, learn and grow within the ecosystem, we’ll naturally see a more diverse representation of who a kaarigar can be. It’s less about replacing one image with another and more about expanding it.

Empowering women artisans goes beyond providing employment… it is about preserving heritage while creating economic independence. How has this journey transformed the lives of the women you work with, both personally and professionally?

Employment is only the starting point. The most meaningful transformation comes when someone begins to see herself not just as an employee, but as a skilled artisan with a craft she can truly call her own.

Over time, I’ve watched women grow in confidence as they master specialised techniques, contribute creatively to the pieces they work on, and eventually mentor others entering the craft. That journey from learner to artisan is incredibly rewarding to witness.

Economic independence certainly creates new opportunities, but equally important is the sense of pride and ownership that comes from preserving a centuries old art while building a career around it. For me, that’s one of the most fulfilling parts of building Deshya. I hope many of them go on to inspire others to consider this craft as a career.

Traditional crafts are deeply rooted in history, yet today’s consumers seek contemporary design. How do you balance preserving age-old techniques while encouraging women artisans to innovate and evolve with changing tastes?

I see tradition and innovation as complementary rather than opposing ideas. The carving techniques that Ma Passion has nurtured over the last twenty-five years are the foundation of everything we create, and preserving that craftsmanship is non-negotiable.

Innovation comes in how we interpret those techniques through contemporary silhouettes, modern jewellery design and thoughtful storytelling. I also believe artisans should be part of that creative conversation. Their understanding of the stone often reveals possibilities that don’t exist on paper, and some of our most distinctive pieces have come from those shared insights.

What have been some of the biggest challenges in encouraging more women to enter or lead traditionally male-dominated craft practices, and how has Deshya worked to overcome these barriers?

One of the biggest challenges has always been access. Traditional crafts have often been passed down through family or community networks, and women haven’t always had the same opportunity to learn or participate.

The other challenge is perception. Encouraging women and, equally importantly, their families to see gemstone carving as a meaningful and long-term profession takes time.

At Deshya, we’ve focused on creating an environment where women can learn, grow and be recognised for their craftsmanship through structured training, mentorship and equal opportunities. Change doesn’t happen overnight, but every artisan who builds a successful career makes that path a little easier for the next generation.

Consumers today increasingly value the story behind a handcrafted product. How important is it for buyers to understand the human stories… the skill, resilience, and craftsmanship of the women who create these pieces?

I think understanding the story behind a handcrafted piece changes the way you experience it. Every carved gemstone represents countless hours of patience, precision and years of dedicated learning.

For us, it’s not simply about celebrating women artisans. It’s about recognising the people whose skill, creativity and craftsmanship bring every piece to life. When customers understand the journey behind what they’re wearing, the jewellery becomes far more than an accessory. It becomes something deeply personal, carrying the story of the hands that created it.

Looking ahead, what is your vision for Deshya by Ma Passion and the next generation of women kaarigars? Do you see them not just preserving India’s craft legacy but redefining it for a global audience?

My hope is that one day the word kaarigar won’t carry any assumptions about gender. It will simply describe someone with exceptional skill and craftsmanship.

For Deshya, the vision is to celebrate India’s extraordinary gemstone carving heritage while presenting it to a global audience through contemporary jewellery. At the same time, I hope we can continue creating meaningful opportunities for more women to learn, contribute and eventually lead within this craft.

If the next generation of women artisans not only preserves this legacy but also helps redefine it for the world, I think that would be the most meaningful achievement of all.